An Historically/Medieval/Elizabethan Focused Needlework/Embroidery Blog27 February 2006
Painting
I also managed to get some paint for the kitchen cupboards on Saturday. I finally went for some spray paint. Only problem is that a couple of the doors won't come off the cupboards, so I might have to spray the paint into a container and then use it. Will have to see.
Anyway, I spent most of Sunday painting the cupboard surrounds and the doors I could remove. The doors were such a bright, strong yellow, I decided to use the white full gloss as an undercoat. I had intended to spray paint this afternoon, but the rain set in, so that might have to wait until later in the week.
Got the collar for the red on brown started.
Anyway, I spent most of Sunday painting the cupboard surrounds and the doors I could remove. The doors were such a bright, strong yellow, I decided to use the white full gloss as an undercoat. I had intended to spray paint this afternoon, but the rain set in, so that might have to wait until later in the week.
Got the collar for the red on brown started.
26 February 2006
Headless Chook
I spent most of Saturday running around. I went to pick up the cupboard for the freezer but it wouldn't fit in the car. They offered to drop it off Sunday arvo, for a charge. That actually suited me cause otherwise, I'd have to have a day off during the week. I also went in search of floating shelves at Go-Lo, but all three shops I went to were sold out of white. And I almost got two bookcases, but luckily I checked the shelf height, to small. So still after those for the info folders.
I got a bit of stitching done. I finished off the red and brown cuffs and got the yellow on brown ones started. I don't know if I will do a matching collar for these, I will have to see.
I got a bit of stitching done. I finished off the red and brown cuffs and got the yellow on brown ones started. I don't know if I will do a matching collar for these, I will have to see.
25 February 2006
Brown Collar and Cuffs with Red Leaves
I started a new set last night. Brown wool ground with red leaves. The leaves are two shades of red, dark for vine and outline and lighter red for the fill. Any suggestions for colour combos would be good, since I want to sell them, knowing what people would like is useful. I have black, green, mustard and maroon ground fabric. This is 3 hours work.
And more cat photos cause she is still gorgeous.
And more cat photos cause she is still gorgeous.
24 February 2006
Brown Green Leaf Collar And Cuffs Completed
Finished off the cuffs last night. All up, 8 hours for both of them.
And both together, they need a brush down and an iron, but I am quite pleased with them. I am thinking of reds/rusts for the next set. So approx. 12 hours for the set.
I don't know if I mentioned it, but the ground fabric is wool. Supposed to be 100% but I suspect a small amount of something else. I'd like 100% wool, but you can only use what you can get hold of.
And both together, they need a brush down and an iron, but I am quite pleased with them. I am thinking of reds/rusts for the next set. So approx. 12 hours for the set.
I don't know if I mentioned it, but the ground fabric is wool. Supposed to be 100% but I suspect a small amount of something else. I'd like 100% wool, but you can only use what you can get hold of.
23 February 2006
Tree Murderer
I decided to try and organise some of my many, many, many, many printouts last night. I've spent a while thinking about how to organise them and have decided on two methods. For the bigger subjects, where I know I will have lots of info eg Elizabethan embroidery or blackwork, they get their own folder. Everything else is being done by country/geographic area. The folders take up a couple of shelves in my main bookcase, so I am thinking of getting one of the cheap bookcases from Go-Lo, and putting this in the lounge room. Since the ex's speakers are now gown, there are two very nice bookcase size gaps next to the tv. That should give me enough room for one case for the folders, with room for growth and another one for magazines, books etc. That should free up some space in my craft room, for stuff that needs a home.
I managed to get about an hour done on the cuffs. I should get them done tonight. Still well within the time frame of one a week, but I was hoping for faster finish. But I have to make myself not get too focused on finishing one project at the cost of other things like going out or other forms of socialising. I have to keep reminding myself that these are not vital projects.
To break up the text, a cute cat photo. Cleo loves boxes and this one is JUST RIGHT:
I managed to get about an hour done on the cuffs. I should get them done tonight. Still well within the time frame of one a week, but I was hoping for faster finish. But I have to make myself not get too focused on finishing one project at the cost of other things like going out or other forms of socialising. I have to keep reminding myself that these are not vital projects.
To break up the text, a cute cat photo. Cleo loves boxes and this one is JUST RIGHT:
22 February 2006
Michaels Comes A Knocking
I got an email from someone involved with the Michaels website. They are writing some sort of article on historical embroidery and were interested in using some of the images on my website. Since I don't have the right to give permission for use, I sent them the details of the lawful owners. I was hoping for some sort of credit or link on the page but apparently that isn't going to happen, which is a bit of a bugger. I will be interested to see what the article looks like.
21 February 2006
Cuffs Underway
I got the matching cuffs onto the frame last night and managed to get both outlines done on Sunday. Just need to fill in the leaves. Should only take a couple of nights, depending on how long I spend each night. I have progress pictures, just can't post them yet.
19 February 2006
Brown Collar and Cuffs with Green Leaves
I have decided to make a few collar and cuff sets to maybe sell. We are having a market day for our big dress up event in July, at Tocal. So this gives me a bit of time to get a few sets done. I am using my 13th C pouch pattern as the basis. This pattern is a leaf variation, took me four hours to do. Should take about that long for matching cuffs. Good way to use up the big batch of Appletons I got cheap. I am using scraps for these projects.
17 February 2006
SCA Embroidery Guild Newsletters
While tracking down historical embroidery patterns can sometimes be a challenge, there are plenty of resources out there, it is just a matter of know where to look. One great source, are the various embroidery guilds within the SCA. Most have some sort of webpage or even better, ongoing resources such as newsletters.
The West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild has a very helpful site, with lots of great articles and also many back issues of their newsletter available for download. This newsletter always has great articles and also a pattern page which is very useful if you aren't a confident designer.
The Atlantian Embroiderers Guild is another great site. The highlight of this site is the excellent listing of extant examples of period embroidery and a great book list. There are also many cross-stitch patterns for various kingdoms, groups and offices.
The Worshipful Company of Broiderers of Lochac also has some helpful information. In addition to a newsletter (which has lots of patterns for both counted and non-counted items), there are also some great articles about historical embroidery.
The West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild has a very helpful site, with lots of great articles and also many back issues of their newsletter available for download. This newsletter always has great articles and also a pattern page which is very useful if you aren't a confident designer.
The Atlantian Embroiderers Guild is another great site. The highlight of this site is the excellent listing of extant examples of period embroidery and a great book list. There are also many cross-stitch patterns for various kingdoms, groups and offices.
The Worshipful Company of Broiderers of Lochac also has some helpful information. In addition to a newsletter (which has lots of patterns for both counted and non-counted items), there are also some great articles about historical embroidery.
16 February 2006
New Cord Technique
Thanks to Racaire's excellent instructions, I now have a new technique for making cords. I don't know if it's period or not and I know fingerloop braiding would be better, but this technique looks better than the bough rayon cord from Spotlight I am currently using and it's something I can do without assistance. The technique is very fast to learn. Even working from photos it only took me about 10mins to do it. And there are really only three steps to do. And it works up very quickly as well. Definately something you can do just about anywhere.
Below are some of the results. I played with different threads, so below are two silks (first using Eterna flat silk and Madeira stranded), then two cotton (normal stranded DMC and then Perle 5 thread), then perle and gold DMC thread and finally, DMC tapestry wool.
Below are some of the results. I played with different threads, so below are two silks (first using Eterna flat silk and Madeira stranded), then two cotton (normal stranded DMC and then Perle 5 thread), then perle and gold DMC thread and finally, DMC tapestry wool.
15 February 2006
Leopolds' 13th Century Pouch
Another pouch. This time for Lord Leopold Maximilian von Weiszenberg. The green background is material of unknown make up (but I would guess some sort of blend). It was given to me by the eventual owner of the pouch. I used this material, because he just made a funky fighting waffenrock out of it, so this helps the pouch match. The white chevron is felt and the birdies are embroidered with Appletons Crewel wool, as are the vines and leaves/flowers.
14 February 2006
Guys' 13th Century Pouch
No great amount of details, just an image of the finished product. This pouch was made for Master Guy le Bastarde. Yes, that's Master Bastarde to you! (Lochac in joke there in case you were wondering).
UPDATE: OK, a couple of people have asked about the pouch. The yellow is 90% wool felt. I'd use 100% but it's impossible to get a hold of where I am. The black saltaire is 100% wool. And the blue diamonds are embroidered using Appletons Crewel wool, which was also used for the vine and the leaves/flowers.
UPDATE: OK, a couple of people have asked about the pouch. The yellow is 90% wool felt. I'd use 100% but it's impossible to get a hold of where I am. The black saltaire is 100% wool. And the blue diamonds are embroidered using Appletons Crewel wool, which was also used for the vine and the leaves/flowers.
13 February 2006
Back to the Dark Ages
No broadband at home at the moment. Waiting for the new modem to arrive. Luckily, I still had dial up on the old laptop (you could've knocked me down with a feather when it actually worked!). So I was able to check email (didn't want mailbox to fill up) but not do updates for the blog.
The two pouches were delivered to their new owners, so I will post pictures tonight or tomorrow. Not being able to do this at work is a real pain in the bum.
I seem to get regular requests for advice about transfering patterns onto fabric, so I am going to write a series of how to guides for the blog. Don't know when I will get to this but I hope to start this week. I will then put them into a downloadable document.
The two pouches were delivered to their new owners, so I will post pictures tonight or tomorrow. Not being able to do this at work is a real pain in the bum.
I seem to get regular requests for advice about transfering patterns onto fabric, so I am going to write a series of how to guides for the blog. Don't know when I will get to this but I hope to start this week. I will then put them into a downloadable document.
10 February 2006
Pouch One Finished
The first of the two pouches is finished. Didn't have time to take photos. I was able to do all 12 eyelets (in buttonhole stitch), add the three tassels and sew on the hanging cord in about 3 hours last night. So I should be able to get the second one done tonight. That will give me a free weekend. I really want to get some Paternosters done this weekend, I have the beads, but I am having trouble finding the buttonhole silk to make the cords. I could use cotton perle, but I want to use silk. I might have to order some from the web.
09 February 2006
Buttonhole vs Blanket Stitch
I originally posted this as a part of the update below but I think it deserves it's own post.
Just a word on the eyelets. Because eyelets will get a certain amount of wear from the drawstrings rubbing against them, it is better to use buttonhole stitch to work them, not blanket stitch. Some people use the terms interchangably, but they are different stitches and having done eyelets in both stitches, I can say for a fact that buttonhole wears better and looks better.
UPDATE: Glenda commented that she couldn't see any real difference. Buttonhole is what is classified as a knotted stitch. The loop produces a small knot at the edge of the stitch. The significance of this is that when using it to reinforce a buttonhole or eyelet (for say drawstrings), the knots give a more sturdy edge and therefore hold up to the wear and tear better. So basically it's a stronger stitch.
Just a word on the eyelets. Because eyelets will get a certain amount of wear from the drawstrings rubbing against them, it is better to use buttonhole stitch to work them, not blanket stitch. Some people use the terms interchangably, but they are different stitches and having done eyelets in both stitches, I can say for a fact that buttonhole wears better and looks better.
UPDATE: Glenda commented that she couldn't see any real difference. Buttonhole is what is classified as a knotted stitch. The loop produces a small knot at the edge of the stitch. The significance of this is that when using it to reinforce a buttonhole or eyelet (for say drawstrings), the knots give a more sturdy edge and therefore hold up to the wear and tear better. So basically it's a stronger stitch.
Progress on Pouches
I made some progress on the pouches last night. I dug out some cotton fabric to line the pouches with. I try to line pouches with a light coloured fabric, because to many times, when the pouch is lined with dark fabric, you can't see inside to find anything! So while both pouches have a black body, one will be lined in black and the other yellow. My only option for the first one would've been white instead of black, but I figured that would get dirty too easy. This way, with one light and one dark, they won't look quite so similar (even though they are!). I have brought one of the pouches with me to work to see if I can get the eyelets started at lunch time.
08 February 2006
Renaissance Pattern Books
Still no updates on my pouches. Yesterday was another rapier practice. Ish brought along his metal rapier, much nicer than fibreglass!! Or as Rurik says, "Sexxyyy".
So here are some links to Renaissance period pattern books:
So here are some links to Renaissance period pattern books:
- The Needle's Excellency - 1611 - A famous poem and a diverse mixture of counted work patterns, needlelace and other patterns.
- Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts - 1606 - by Federic de Vinciolo
- The English Emblem Book Project - emblem books were often used as embroidery and other decorative art patterns.
- The Miscellany of Thomas Trevelyon - 1608 - was a cornacopia of just about everything, but the book is famous for over 100 pages of embroidery patterns. Here is one page. For the biblophile, the Folger is producing a reproduction of the work in 2007.
- Bassée, Nicolas. "German Renaissance Patterns for Embroidery: A Facsimile Copy of Nicolas Bassée's New Modelbuch of 1568, with an introduction by Kathleen Epstein". Austin: Curious Works Press. ISBN 0-9633331-4-3.
- Gesner, Konrad. "Curious Woodcuts of Fanciful and Real Beasts: A selection of 190 sixteenth-century woodcuts from Gesner's and Topsell's natural histories". New York: Dover Publications, Inc. ISBN: 0-486-22701-4
- Hofer, Hans. "Ain new Formbuech'len der weyssen Arbeyt". Nieuwkoop, Netherlands: Miland Publishers, 1968. (Facsimile of the 1545 edition published in Augsburg)
- Nourry, Claude and Saincte Louie[sic], Pierre de. "Patterns: Embroidery - Early 16th Century". Berkeley, CA: Lacis, 1999. ISBN 1-891656-16-3.
- Shorleyker, Richard. "A Schole-House for the Needle: Produced from the original book printed in 1632 and now in the private collection of John and Elizabeth Mason". Much Wenlock, Shropshire: RJL Smith & Associates, 1998.ISBN 1-872665-72-1.
- Sibmacher, Johan. "Baroque Charted Designs for Needlework". New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1975. "This Dover edition, first published in 1975, is an unabridged republication of the 1880 edition of Newes Modelbuch . . . . Inn Druck verfertigt, a work originally published in Nuremberg in 1604. . ." ISBN 0-486-23186-0.
- Vinciolo, Federico. "Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint (An unabridged facsimile of the "Singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts" of 1587)". New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1971. ISBN 0-486-22438-4
- Newell, Kathryn. "Needlework Patterns from Renaissance Germany: Designs recharted by Kathryn Newell from Johan Sibmacher's Schön Neues Modelbuch, 1597". Boulder, CO: Costume & Dressmaker Press, 1999.
07 February 2006
Viking Embroidery
Historical embroidery can be a bit of a famine or feast situation. For some eras and areas there area multitude of extant examples and others sources. For others, there is nothing. Viking embroidery falls somewhere in the middle. We have a few examples of surviving textiles which are backed up by some literary sources. The main embroidery find for Viking embroidery is the Mammen excavation. This burial dates from the 10th Century. The image on the left is a reconstruction of the clothing and embroidery found at Mammen.
The most famous site on the web for Viking Embroidery is Carolyn Priest-Dormans' Viking Embroidery Stitches and Motifs. This site gives some historical background as well as line drawings of the motifs on the clothing.
Embroidery from the Tenth Century Viking Grave at Mammen Denmark by Heather Rose Jones is another site, which compliments this information with drawings of the motifs. What makes this site especially useful is that it gives the motifs are drawn to scale and also has colour charts to inform what colours were used on the original.
These sites are a good place to start, but also when looking for design ideas, look at other Viking crafts, such as wood carving, stonework, etc to find the types of design styles that were popular.
06 February 2006
Sewing, Shopping and Unhappy Cat
I've done a few hours sewing. I finished filling in the flower/petal design on the second pouch. I spent Friday and Saturday nights working on the shields, which were completed. I then sewed them onto the pouch and outlined. So both pouches are now up to the construction stage. Sorry, no pictures, might give away the surprise!
I spent all day Saturday running around. Went to get the cord to finish off one of the pouches, but of course Spotlight didn't have any. I have enough to make the pouch, just need to make the drawstrings, so I can pick that up on the way to give it to the new owner.
I also went and bought a new fridge (with small freezer) and a small front opening freezer. I got the freezer because even when I make a small batch of say spagetti sauce, there is enough for several meals. The freezer means I can put it away and not eat spagetti for a week (even though there is nothing wrong with that). I wanted to make sure they had the stuff in stock cause Dad was driving three hours to help me pick them up!
I also picked up some glass and gem stone beads to make some Paternosters. It's something I've been wanting to try for a while but finding the right sized beads in good materials is really hard, even though three bead shops have opened up here in the last 6 months. They all seem to have the same stock.
We picked the stuff up Sunday, so it's now in place. I went to get a small cabinet to sit the freezer on, but they didn't have any the right size. But for an extra $30 they could custom make one exactly the right size. This will put the freezer at a more user friendly height and give me extra storage as well.
And I just gave my boy cat a bath. Man is he pissed at me right now. But once he dries out, is fluffy and beautiful and not as itchy, I will be popular again. I wish I could've gotten a photo, man was he annoyed.
I spent all day Saturday running around. Went to get the cord to finish off one of the pouches, but of course Spotlight didn't have any. I have enough to make the pouch, just need to make the drawstrings, so I can pick that up on the way to give it to the new owner.
I also went and bought a new fridge (with small freezer) and a small front opening freezer. I got the freezer because even when I make a small batch of say spagetti sauce, there is enough for several meals. The freezer means I can put it away and not eat spagetti for a week (even though there is nothing wrong with that). I wanted to make sure they had the stuff in stock cause Dad was driving three hours to help me pick them up!
I also picked up some glass and gem stone beads to make some Paternosters. It's something I've been wanting to try for a while but finding the right sized beads in good materials is really hard, even though three bead shops have opened up here in the last 6 months. They all seem to have the same stock.
We picked the stuff up Sunday, so it's now in place. I went to get a small cabinet to sit the freezer on, but they didn't have any the right size. But for an extra $30 they could custom make one exactly the right size. This will put the freezer at a more user friendly height and give me extra storage as well.
And I just gave my boy cat a bath. Man is he pissed at me right now. But once he dries out, is fluffy and beautiful and not as itchy, I will be popular again. I wish I could've gotten a photo, man was he annoyed.
03 February 2006
The Girona Creation Tapestry
The Girona Creation Tapestry is a 12th C wall hanging of immense proportions. The embroidery is worked in wool and linen on wool twill ground fabric. The remaining pieces measure 3.65m x 4.7m (12ft x 17ft 2 inches). It was produced in the early 12th Century (approx. 1100 CE) and was most likely produced in the local area of where it currently resides, in the Catherdral of Girona in Catalonia in Spain.
The images on the work record the Creation myths of the Bible and include other images relating to the natural world as well as historical references and images of the months of the year (with activities associated with those months also depicted).
I am posting this because I don't have any update pictures of my stuff and because an upcoming competition for WCOB is Klosterstitch also known as Bokhara or Romanian couching or self-couching. While this stitch is mostly associated with works produced in German lands, it was widely used in other areas, including in the creaton of the Girona Tapestry. I am thinking of doing an entry based on the Girona work. I have a huge bag of Appletons that I got of ebay. The colours in this bag suit the colours in this piece rather than the primary colours associated with the German klosterstitch hangings.
02 February 2006
Sewing and Rapier
I got a few hours of sewing done last night, even though it was really hot (a normal person would've turned the air conditioner on!). Finished one side of the second pouch. Only got the filling of the flowers/leaves to go on second side, which I will get done tonight. Then I should get the two shields done on Friday night. This will give me Saturday to get the both of them sewn up and with a bit of luck, given to their new owners on Sunday. I will try and add pics a bit later, no longer have access at work to the right software to upload.
Did the sewing while watching Prison Break. It's been super hyped up here and with an Aussie in co-lead, had to give it a go. It was interesting, I just hope they don't spend too long getting to the break, you know what I mean, he has a five year sentence with a couple of months to execution but it takes 7 seasons to get there!
Thanks to Freydis and Alessandra for rapier comments. I play Elizabethan, so that is what I have in mind for my fencing garb. I have a nice wool dress and I was thinking a matching doublet, which I could just wear over the top would be enough to get me started.
And as far as picking a "style" of fencing, no idea yet, still working on the very, very basics! Although I like the sound of rapier and short sword/dagger.
Did the sewing while watching Prison Break. It's been super hyped up here and with an Aussie in co-lead, had to give it a go. It was interesting, I just hope they don't spend too long getting to the break, you know what I mean, he has a five year sentence with a couple of months to execution but it takes 7 seasons to get there!
Thanks to Freydis and Alessandra for rapier comments. I play Elizabethan, so that is what I have in mind for my fencing garb. I have a nice wool dress and I was thinking a matching doublet, which I could just wear over the top would be enough to get me started.
And as far as picking a "style" of fencing, no idea yet, still working on the very, very basics! Although I like the sound of rapier and short sword/dagger.
01 February 2006
First Rapier Practice
No sewing so far. But our Barony had its first rapier practice at my house last night. I've been wanting to do some fighting but heavy is too hard on the knees!! Rapier is easier on the body, requires alot less and lighter equipment and you can wear funky clothes while fighting! We had five people there, and started with some basics, foot work etc. Not a bad start considering it was raining all day!!
We now have to start getting kit together. Hardest thing will be getting hold of some cheap fencing masks. That will probably be the most expensive bit as we can start out with reasonably priced fibreglass rapiers.
Nik, any hints for good websites for 16th C fencing garb (doublets, etc) instructions?
We now have to start getting kit together. Hardest thing will be getting hold of some cheap fencing masks. That will probably be the most expensive bit as we can start out with reasonably priced fibreglass rapiers.
Nik, any hints for good websites for 16th C fencing garb (doublets, etc) instructions?
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