Got a reply from the V&A about this item.
2nd half of 15th century
Silk, linen, gilt membrane tissue.
1/2 twill, 1 binding, 2 pattern warps, 4 pattern wefts.
Warps: bindings: silk, red; pattern: linen, undyed.
Wefts: silk, red, green, white, blue; gilt membrane on a linen core.
Museum no: 845-1899
Does this mean it's woven and not embroidered? Anyone who's been to the V&A know?